Archive for the ‘ sierra leone ’ Category

House Arrest

I woke up last Saturday at 7:30 in the a.m. The birds were chirping exotic songs while the dogs, tired from a night of frolicking and yapping, rested in a blessed peace beneath. My eyes opened with a spirit of motivation – today would be the day I rise to run with anticipation, instead of the usual dread. I was a little proud of myself to have risen before my two roommates, but I was also happy for them as they appear to be resting peacefully – something for which they both have wished. My emotions average out and I dressed without guilt for my pride. As I reached for the door, I thought, “I am in a foreign country and I’m going out to run under the African sun (which happens to be the American sun too). You should tell someone in case you pass out of dehydration.” Not wanting to rest my comrades from their slumber and therefore have to deal with guilt for my pride, I decided to tell my hostess.

Marvel is styling her three year-old daughter’s hair as I approach and whisper that I am going to run to the beach and back, a four mile journey. The air was cool and I was ready to start my day when her reply rendered me speechless: “You can’t.”

What? “You can’t” is what my laziness tells me every other morning. Today I had bested my laziness (so far) and was going to show, in the American spirit, that I darn well can. I stood there dumbfounded. Marvel continued, “Today is a national cleaning day. Everyone is under house arrest from 7 a.m. to noon to clean their house and surrounding area.” Still not able to find words to describe the wide variety of feelings stewing in my chest, she offered to help me expend my energy by cleaning the house. I nodded as I walked to the veranda.

I began to unpack the situation before me. I was under house arrest. I was such a good child, wasn’t I? Well, at least I was never in trouble with the law. House arrest was something very foreign to me. Marvin, the nine year-old, joined me and provided me with a history of the day. Apparently, this was the first national cleaning day declared since the previous government, a military government, had been in power. Under the previous government these days occurred the last Saturday of every month. I swallowed my anger over the thought of being oppressed once a month and asked Marvin what happens if you go out during this time. “They beat you.” Excuse me, public beatings? “Or they will arrest you and give you a job to do … something to clean up.” Well, in comparison that doesn’t sound so bad.

I stood there debating whether to proceed with my run. Such days of motivation really don’t come around all that often. I sized myself up against all of the Sierra Leonean police officers that I could remember seeing. There were none that I would let lay a finger on me. Though shrinking at an incredible rate, I am still bigger than many. The police don’t carry weapons either. I figured that I could take my chances, but that it would probably be best for both me and the organization I represent (and my country, for that matter) if I did not make a public scene this fine morning. A large apoto (white man) confronting the local police would draw quite a crowd.

Having convinced myself to stay put, I stood on the veranda and pondered the morning away. “Sierra Leone is a democracy, right?” “How many American civil rights would this violate?” “Why do people put up with this?” Question after question raced through my head. Having read a book on cultural sensitivity in which I was reminded that different cultures have different methods for doing things, I asked myself how this could be different and not wrong. But how could this not be wrong? The way I saw it was that the government was inept, having wasted money that could have been used to create/build up a sanitation department and accompanying strategy that would make this action unnecessary. People would not only be cleaning out their houses, but also the gutters in front of their houses filled with garbage and sewage. The amount of trash would be extensive, seeing as there are only a handful of trash cans (three, I think) in Freetown and they are no larger than the one in your kitchen. People throw their trash into the gutter where it is either burned or eventually flushed down into Kroo Bay, the slum where we hold the Good News Club on Saturdays. Littering isn’t against the law, it’s the national past time; everybody’s doing it. The health risks alone make this wrong, right?

I stewed as I filled six pages in my journal to describe my thoughts and feelings on the situation. I even went so far as to concoct an ignorant and incredibly short-sighted plan to collect taxes from the people to begin public works projects, beginning with sanitation of course. “There has to be a better way. Sanitation is the government’s job. Such a declaration is only evidence of the ineptness of the government.” Thoughts continued to race.

Struggling to see the other side of the story, I commiserated with other expatriates, hoping that one of them would put me in my place and help me see the other side. No one did. I spoke with several Sierra Leoneans to hear their side of the story. “It is good for the people to have the city clean.” “It is good to have these days again. The city was getting very dirty and needed to be cleaned.” They knew the benefit of a clean environment and knew of no other way to accomplish the task. I explained the way sanitation is handled where I’m from. They thought it was a good idea. I agreed, especially in light of the alternative displayed before me.

I still see such a mandated cleaning day as wrong. It is oppressive and puts the people it attempts to protect in danger by handling the very object of its wrath, the garbage itself. The piles of trash are still being collected by men in flatbed trucks with shovels, four days after it was piled onto the streets. Despite all of this, this half-day of inconvenience for me was a huge lesson. It reminded me of the “foreign” in “I live in a foreign country.” I don’t understand everything – a good thing to remember seeing as my routine has brought me under impression that I do. There are some things that need to be done and there are better ways in which they could be completed. There is room for improvement. But I am not going to make a lick of difference if I stand up and fight the system. I can plant seeds as to other ways of doing things, but I can not make the change. Only the people can. Only the people can demand a government that provides a sustainable sanitation strategy that does not require the people to put themselves at risk. Only the people can demand a government that does not steal from its people. At the end of the day, I am going home, the U.N. is going home, and most expatriates are going home to countrymen that have already demanded such things and governments that put them in place.

Even as I write this I am struck with my own ignorance and arrogance. There is much for me to think about and much for others to rebuke in me. Not all of my ways are the “correct” ways. There are differences in more than just opinion that end up with relatively the same outcome in many cases. In other cases the outcomes are different though the methods are the same. In a place where there is so much that is different and where no one disagrees that there is much work to be done, what does one choose to change? What do you do first? What do you leave untouched? How to you go from situation A to situation B … and on up the alphabet? My mind continues to race …

On a lighter note, an unnamed team member threw a plastic bottle into the gutter the other day to join several of its friends and was met with an accusation that “he, he was the one who was messing up this country!” He looked around to see the multiple piles of trash in the surrounding streets and walked away with a guilty chuckle. Yes indeed, he was the one.

If you made it this far, please post a comment. You deserve recognition.

New Pics …

Hey Folks, me again. I hope you are all doing well. Things are going great. We're quite busy, but I should get some time tomorrow to put some stories up. Until then, I hope the three new pictures in the gallery can hold you over.

A Good Sweat after walking to Lighthouse

 

I Got Hugged

Let me paint you a picture of tragedy, blessing, and fruit. Micah and I, charged with acquiring the ingredients to concoct a fruit salad large enough to feed fifteen hungry individuals for a St. Patrick’s Day celebration, entered into an unfamiliar domain: the open market. The open market is to be feared by bachelors who know not its ways or prices. We did not pay the situation the respect it deserved, having only discussed said fruit salad at a high level – not near enough preparation for what was to come.

We entered the market and were at once swarmed with large African women who could smell our marital status and ignorance. We would not last long. Micah quickly purchased several apples, one of the more familiar items, for an acceptable price. Under pressure to purchase vegetables, I showed my cards in amateur fashion: “we’re making a fruit salad,” I said. Two more women approached. “Come buy my oranges.” “You need watermelon? You need watermelon!” We made several verbal commitments to view a wide range of fruit as Micah and I attempted to communicate above the commotion of five women competing for our attention. The fact that we were each a head taller than the women helped us … but not much.

We walked down to the mango lady, a short jaunt that took us by the lady selling the oranges. Unhappy that we passed without looking, focused as we were, she grabbed several oranges and mobilized her business, bringing it directly to us. In the meantime, the mango lady had already begun with her sales pitch. “Three for 10,000,” she said. “No, no. You no go less me?,” we responded with our standard response. The “white man price” is generally double what you should probably pay, we always push back for a better price. It’s the expected move in this dance. She easily relents and we end up with four mangos for 7,000 Leones, as she “threw in” an extra mango for free.

I looked at Micah – we were totally lost in the confusion of the moment. Everything was happening so fast. I brought my hands together in a “T” and called a time out, a concept that apparently doesn’t translate across cultures well. We tried to huddle and get control of the situation in vain. In short order we had two pineapples in our bag for 8,000 Leones, seemingly a good deal. Next we purchased the watermelon outright, the seller demanding payment on delivery. Apparently, she was not part of the same fruit cooperative as the other ladies that were allowing us to fill our bag before we paid.

The ladies fulfilled our request for papaya, again “throwing in” a charity fruit. Our bag was full and near ripping. The chief of the fruit co-op gave us the total, which we corrected after adding up the subtotals. Micah handed over 25,000 Leones to a visually ecstatic woman who hugged me. A hug. Something was up. We instantly knew that we had paid way too much. We walked away, thankful that the circus was over and we had fruit. It was fun to experience and was worth the extra couple bucks for the story. We were not too upset that we paid a couple extra bucks. Though we had been taken advantage of, we were able to bless the women. They still smile and wave enthusiastically as we walk past days after the experience. They have fond memories of us.

A Still and a Talkie

There is a new picture and movie in the photo gallery.

Kids at Kroo Bay

Fayne

Pronounced "fine," this is a word that I'm using honestly lately as others ask "how da body," or "how are you doing?" "Fayne" takes the place of several dozen English adjectives, including fine, beautiful, okay, well, wonderful, and pretty much every positive response you can think of. Life is going well here in Sierra Leone. Though the challenges still remain, my heart is at peace and I am becoming accustomed to more of the things that were once thorns in my side. The dogs and generator sounds have entered the background as I lay my head to sleep. The heat has not been so bad of late, although it did feel quite warm today as I went for a 2.4 mile run.

We began teaching classes at Lighthouse last week. I have six students broken up evenly in two math classes. These “kids” are in their mid to late teens, but operate at a third to fourth grade math level. These kids should have learned what we’re going over years ago during the civil war. The education system must have shut down during those years. The education system here is still corrupt and in shambles. I’ve enjoyed teaching and I think (and hope) that the kids are improving as well as enjoying some of it.

I apologize for the brevity of this post; I intended it to be much longer, but I’ve spent 2.5 hours in this Internet café and it is time to go eat chicken. If I don’t leave soon, I will not have enough cash left to dine. I wish you all well. If you have emailed me, I again ask for your patience in my reply. I don’t get in front of a computer much, which is both a blessing and an annoyance. I thank you for your patience.

Have you heard of Samuel Morris?

A Liberian pastor here in Sierra Leone asked me today if I'd heard of Samuel Morris. Without speaking I got up and shook the man's hand. He made my day. You see, I was privileged to live in a dorm at Taylor University named after Sammy … two, in fact. There have been three dorms named after Sammy Morris. I lived in the second and third renditions of the dorm. Taylor is currently on the third rendition, but I'm sure that the fourth is in the planning stages. You can never be too prepared, and a TU without a Samuel Morris dorm is no TU at all.

 

Sammy Morris

 

New Pictures!

Thank you all for your comments! Please keep them coming!

I am writing from an oasis of air-conditioning called Paradise Internet Cafe. It turns out that Paradise will set you back $2 an hour. Another post should be coming a little later. There are also new pictures in the gallery. Enjoy!

Matt Sleeping

 

Washing Machine Love

I don't think this qualifies as "Possible Larium Madness," but I did dream last night that I had returned home and was hugging my stacked washer and dryer. On a related note, I did my laundry by hand yesterday.

On Comments …

Hey folks, me again. I hope that you are all having a wonderful day and enjoying the mixed arrangements of letters and punctuation that I've put up here.

I come to you today with a request. I know you know that you're out there. Please let me know that you are. I would love to have some more comments on my blog – small reminders that you're out there and that I'm not forgotten.

If you've never left a comment before, don't fret. It's easy. At the bottom of each of my posts there are links for the category of the post and to leave a comment. Just below this post there should some links such as "sierra leone | Comments (x)," where x is the number of comments people have left for the post. Click on the "Comments (x)" link and you will be presented with a form to fill out. Write something small and click the submit button.

Thank you all for checking in on me and for forgiving my grammatical mistakes. It means so much that you are journeying with me in this adventure.

Kroo Bay

We hop off the podapoda and head for the bay. Kroo Bay, that is – the largest slum in Freetown, filled with beautiful people and trash. We head down the long concrete staircase into the bay that will put us near the door of a small, one room church. But you see the steps are perilous, for a slew of children await you about 2/3 of the way down. They will latch on to you, demanding hugs and attention. If you battle through the battalion you’ll be able to step inside the church for a few more moments of calm before the joyous storm of the Kroo Bay Good News Club.

Once inside, you will help set up the benches and a semi-circle of four chairs that will serve as a triage center in about an hour. A large pan of hardboiled eggs and a box of semisweet cookies await their impending doom near the chairs. Shortly before 4 in the p.m. on this fine Saturday, the leadership group gathers to brief for the coming task. The rag-tag mixture of Asians, Caucasians, Africans, and Americans (we’re missing red, but yellow, black, & white are still precious in His sight) are given the go ahead and the door opens. A steady stream of the poorest of the poor this world has to offer enters in order of ascending height with their fingers holding their lips shut. Ol-de-lip (hold the lip) is repeated in steady fashion. Such a large grouping of quiet youth is hard to find. The little ones are packed into the front benches, the slightly bigger ones just behind, and so on. As Matt am the standard for all things big today, there are no rows of big ones.

As the room seems to shrink with the 250-300 beautiful children packed like sardines, the cantor begins clapping and singing. The children come to life, except for the few who have fallen asleep, and join in the chorus. “Higher …. Higher …. Higher oh oh oh …. is the name of Jesus higher.” The sound bellows from the little church into the bay. Singing goes on for about fifteen minutes after which the children are corralled back into their seats.

It is at this time that Noah, the amazing individual who lives at the top of the hill before the steps comes up front to remind the kids of the rules. “If you cry, you’re going home. If you want to use the bathroom, you’re going home. If you sleep, you’re going home.” The commands are shouted in love, and are mostly empty threats. You’ve seen children get three or more chances to wake up. You’ve yet to see any kids sent home Matt is thankful that he hasn’t been sent home yet …

One of the teens from Lighthouse, the other ministry we’re involved with heavily, stands up and gives a message that you still can’t quite understand with your limited knowledge of the Krio language. The message finishes, perhaps with a song or clapping activity, and then Noah steps up front again to remind the kids that if they need medical care then they are to stay after. The hardboiled eggs are then distributed and eaten on site. You can’t risk a kid saving her egg to eat later when her hunger is greater, but the egg has spoiled. The exit criteria for the Good News Club is two hands raised high to show that there is no egg remaining. Once the kids pass this test, you help usher them out the back and the front.

About forty kids remain – half with medical needs requiring pills, half requiring ointments and bandages. They are separated into these groups and treated. You decide to help out with the ointment gang and begin to walk around the other individuals who have a clue to see what you can do to help out. You begin by handing out vitamins, but that job is quickly taken away from you by one of the Lighthouse girls. You’re left to help clean wounds and bandage cuts. The bag of latex gloves seems to present a good idea, so you grab a pair and put them on in such a way to remind everyone that you are an amateur of the first degree. The gloves never do go on all the way. You grab some water and gauze to begin cleaning a wound. Next comes the Bactine, a potion you feared as a child, but these children barely even squirm when its sting hits. Perhaps this physical pain is one of the easiest things they’ve felt today, you think to yourself. The plaster (band-aid) is applied and the kid sent on his way, just in time for another kid to take his place in the chair. This child’s wound has developed into a tropical ulcer … still out of your league. You wait for Cami, the WMF field director for Sierra Leone. She’s seen dozens, if not hundreds of these. She knows just what to do … and to say. These can hurt a lot. Dead skin needs to be cut off and the ooze cleaned out with cotton swabs. The child squirms and grips Micah’s hand to help forget about the pain. After twenty minutes of cleaning, the girl’s wound is bandaged up and she takes a seat. She’ll walk back up the hill with you when you leave to make sure she knows where Noah’s house is. She’ll need to come back there every other day for the next week to get the wound cleaned. If she doesn’t, the wound will not heal and will go deeper. You afraid to ask what deeper means and how long deeper can go on until something else happens. You choose not to think about that.

After about 45 minutes, the line of children seeking help from our own little E.R. diminishes. The room is put back in order, or at least the way it was before you got there. You gather again to debrief the day as you help finish off the hardboiled eggs. “What went well? What could have gone better?” The group prays and you head back up the hill. Kroo Bay is left behind the wall erected by the government to hide it from the rest of the city. A little bit of you is left behind and the rest of you will be back next Saturday.