Archive for March, 2006

A Glimmer of Hope?

Justice appears to be on the horizon. Charles Taylor, a modern day maniac likened to Hitler, was captured today in Nigeria. Check out the story here and see some pictures here. He is the former president of Liberia, Sierra Leone's neighbor to the east. He has been charged with aiding the rebel forces that committed the horrible atrocities that have become synonymous with Sierra Leone. He and his government traded weapons for the "blood diamonds" mined in Sierra Leone during its civil war. He has also been charged with laundering money for Al Qaeda by trading cash for diamonds. Diamonds are much harder to trace which comes in handy when the bank accounts are frozen. So, long story short, Charles Taylor is a bad guy.

Educational Link: Learn more about Charles Taylor at Wikipedia.

Please pray for justice in his trial and that Sierra Leoneans would be given a sense of hope in seeing justice in action.

Side Note: I believe that I saw the helicoptor that carried Charles Taylor to Sierra Leone fly over my house today. Crazy. We live about two miles from the UN compound where it landed.

Update: National Cleaning Day

I heard a rumor yesterday about the national cleaning day I mentioned a few days ago. According to an unnamed source, not that you would have any clue who it was anyway, a Belgian group provided the Sierra Leonean government with a large sum of money to help clean up the city. The money was allegedly misused. With a pending visit of individuals representing the Belgian group, the government needed to do something to convince them that the funds had been utilized according to their intended purpose. The national cleaning day was allegedly instituted to accomplish this goal.

Is the rumor true? Who knows? I don't necessarily give it too much credit, but its mere existence is indicative of how the average Sierra Leonean views the government. There is so much corruption that every action is seen through the filter of "I wonder where the money really went?" In the U.S. there might be an investigative news story or even a congressional hearing, but here there will only be accusations passed on by word of mouth. The "story" may be printed in one of the many daily newspapers, but, unlike in more familiar places, there is almost no trust in the media here. Lies and corruption are as abundant in the media as they are in the government … at least that is the impression.

Accompanying the filter is a sense of hopelessness. There is no hope for a hearing or truthful, trustworthy media report. There is little hope for justice in this land where injustice is rampant. And it is hope that I feel is vital to rebuilding this country. You cannot demand hope of someone; it must rise up from within him. Only then will a person have the sustained strength to work for desired changes.

We're trying to instill such hope in the young adults of the Lighthouse program and the kids that come to the Kroo Bay GNC. We want them to know that they have worth and are valued. They are created in the image of the all-powerful God. For this reason alone, they are of immense value that cannot be taken away. There is hope for them. The road will not be easy or short, but there is hope that they will be able to live rich lives outside poverty.

A Note to Employees of a Small Pharma Company

To all of my friends at a small pharmaceutical company that have corresponded with me via email, please check your junk mail folders. Apparently Lotus Notes finds me disagreeable and attempts to junk me. I think you can highlight the message and use the "Spam Management" button to keep messages from my email address from going to your junk mail folder.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Email Grace

I ask for your continued grace as I respond to your emails. Thank you all so much for taking the time to write me. It brightens my day to log in and see your name waiting for me. There is a larger backlog of email than I would like at this time, something that I will try to remedy this week.

Thanks!

House Arrest

I woke up last Saturday at 7:30 in the a.m. The birds were chirping exotic songs while the dogs, tired from a night of frolicking and yapping, rested in a blessed peace beneath. My eyes opened with a spirit of motivation – today would be the day I rise to run with anticipation, instead of the usual dread. I was a little proud of myself to have risen before my two roommates, but I was also happy for them as they appear to be resting peacefully – something for which they both have wished. My emotions average out and I dressed without guilt for my pride. As I reached for the door, I thought, “I am in a foreign country and I’m going out to run under the African sun (which happens to be the American sun too). You should tell someone in case you pass out of dehydration.” Not wanting to rest my comrades from their slumber and therefore have to deal with guilt for my pride, I decided to tell my hostess.

Marvel is styling her three year-old daughter’s hair as I approach and whisper that I am going to run to the beach and back, a four mile journey. The air was cool and I was ready to start my day when her reply rendered me speechless: “You can’t.”

What? “You can’t” is what my laziness tells me every other morning. Today I had bested my laziness (so far) and was going to show, in the American spirit, that I darn well can. I stood there dumbfounded. Marvel continued, “Today is a national cleaning day. Everyone is under house arrest from 7 a.m. to noon to clean their house and surrounding area.” Still not able to find words to describe the wide variety of feelings stewing in my chest, she offered to help me expend my energy by cleaning the house. I nodded as I walked to the veranda.

I began to unpack the situation before me. I was under house arrest. I was such a good child, wasn’t I? Well, at least I was never in trouble with the law. House arrest was something very foreign to me. Marvin, the nine year-old, joined me and provided me with a history of the day. Apparently, this was the first national cleaning day declared since the previous government, a military government, had been in power. Under the previous government these days occurred the last Saturday of every month. I swallowed my anger over the thought of being oppressed once a month and asked Marvin what happens if you go out during this time. “They beat you.” Excuse me, public beatings? “Or they will arrest you and give you a job to do … something to clean up.” Well, in comparison that doesn’t sound so bad.

I stood there debating whether to proceed with my run. Such days of motivation really don’t come around all that often. I sized myself up against all of the Sierra Leonean police officers that I could remember seeing. There were none that I would let lay a finger on me. Though shrinking at an incredible rate, I am still bigger than many. The police don’t carry weapons either. I figured that I could take my chances, but that it would probably be best for both me and the organization I represent (and my country, for that matter) if I did not make a public scene this fine morning. A large apoto (white man) confronting the local police would draw quite a crowd.

Having convinced myself to stay put, I stood on the veranda and pondered the morning away. “Sierra Leone is a democracy, right?” “How many American civil rights would this violate?” “Why do people put up with this?” Question after question raced through my head. Having read a book on cultural sensitivity in which I was reminded that different cultures have different methods for doing things, I asked myself how this could be different and not wrong. But how could this not be wrong? The way I saw it was that the government was inept, having wasted money that could have been used to create/build up a sanitation department and accompanying strategy that would make this action unnecessary. People would not only be cleaning out their houses, but also the gutters in front of their houses filled with garbage and sewage. The amount of trash would be extensive, seeing as there are only a handful of trash cans (three, I think) in Freetown and they are no larger than the one in your kitchen. People throw their trash into the gutter where it is either burned or eventually flushed down into Kroo Bay, the slum where we hold the Good News Club on Saturdays. Littering isn’t against the law, it’s the national past time; everybody’s doing it. The health risks alone make this wrong, right?

I stewed as I filled six pages in my journal to describe my thoughts and feelings on the situation. I even went so far as to concoct an ignorant and incredibly short-sighted plan to collect taxes from the people to begin public works projects, beginning with sanitation of course. “There has to be a better way. Sanitation is the government’s job. Such a declaration is only evidence of the ineptness of the government.” Thoughts continued to race.

Struggling to see the other side of the story, I commiserated with other expatriates, hoping that one of them would put me in my place and help me see the other side. No one did. I spoke with several Sierra Leoneans to hear their side of the story. “It is good for the people to have the city clean.” “It is good to have these days again. The city was getting very dirty and needed to be cleaned.” They knew the benefit of a clean environment and knew of no other way to accomplish the task. I explained the way sanitation is handled where I’m from. They thought it was a good idea. I agreed, especially in light of the alternative displayed before me.

I still see such a mandated cleaning day as wrong. It is oppressive and puts the people it attempts to protect in danger by handling the very object of its wrath, the garbage itself. The piles of trash are still being collected by men in flatbed trucks with shovels, four days after it was piled onto the streets. Despite all of this, this half-day of inconvenience for me was a huge lesson. It reminded me of the “foreign” in “I live in a foreign country.” I don’t understand everything – a good thing to remember seeing as my routine has brought me under impression that I do. There are some things that need to be done and there are better ways in which they could be completed. There is room for improvement. But I am not going to make a lick of difference if I stand up and fight the system. I can plant seeds as to other ways of doing things, but I can not make the change. Only the people can. Only the people can demand a government that provides a sustainable sanitation strategy that does not require the people to put themselves at risk. Only the people can demand a government that does not steal from its people. At the end of the day, I am going home, the U.N. is going home, and most expatriates are going home to countrymen that have already demanded such things and governments that put them in place.

Even as I write this I am struck with my own ignorance and arrogance. There is much for me to think about and much for others to rebuke in me. Not all of my ways are the “correct” ways. There are differences in more than just opinion that end up with relatively the same outcome in many cases. In other cases the outcomes are different though the methods are the same. In a place where there is so much that is different and where no one disagrees that there is much work to be done, what does one choose to change? What do you do first? What do you leave untouched? How to you go from situation A to situation B … and on up the alphabet? My mind continues to race …

On a lighter note, an unnamed team member threw a plastic bottle into the gutter the other day to join several of its friends and was met with an accusation that “he, he was the one who was messing up this country!” He looked around to see the multiple piles of trash in the surrounding streets and walked away with a guilty chuckle. Yes indeed, he was the one.

If you made it this far, please post a comment. You deserve recognition.

A New Look

I felt peppy today and changed the header image. What do you all think? The picture is of my pair of wooden clogs that my floor purchased one year in lieu of a shirt to show our solidarity. The other shoe is proudly branded with "Brotherhood," the name of my floor.

I also updated the library plugin because of a bug in the previous version. Not that this makes much difference to you, but my life is ever so slightly easier now. However, there is a new feature for you, if you wish to waste another moment or two of your time. Scroll down to the bottom of the sidebar and see the new link titled "view full library." Click on it and enjoy reading a list of all the books that I've read since November-ish. The current count is 13 which very well might be a personal record for me in a five month period of time – sad in a sense, but hopeful.

New Pics …

Hey Folks, me again. I hope you are all doing well. Things are going great. We're quite busy, but I should get some time tomorrow to put some stories up. Until then, I hope the three new pictures in the gallery can hold you over.

A Good Sweat after walking to Lighthouse

 

I Got Hugged

Let me paint you a picture of tragedy, blessing, and fruit. Micah and I, charged with acquiring the ingredients to concoct a fruit salad large enough to feed fifteen hungry individuals for a St. Patrick’s Day celebration, entered into an unfamiliar domain: the open market. The open market is to be feared by bachelors who know not its ways or prices. We did not pay the situation the respect it deserved, having only discussed said fruit salad at a high level – not near enough preparation for what was to come.

We entered the market and were at once swarmed with large African women who could smell our marital status and ignorance. We would not last long. Micah quickly purchased several apples, one of the more familiar items, for an acceptable price. Under pressure to purchase vegetables, I showed my cards in amateur fashion: “we’re making a fruit salad,” I said. Two more women approached. “Come buy my oranges.” “You need watermelon? You need watermelon!” We made several verbal commitments to view a wide range of fruit as Micah and I attempted to communicate above the commotion of five women competing for our attention. The fact that we were each a head taller than the women helped us … but not much.

We walked down to the mango lady, a short jaunt that took us by the lady selling the oranges. Unhappy that we passed without looking, focused as we were, she grabbed several oranges and mobilized her business, bringing it directly to us. In the meantime, the mango lady had already begun with her sales pitch. “Three for 10,000,” she said. “No, no. You no go less me?,” we responded with our standard response. The “white man price” is generally double what you should probably pay, we always push back for a better price. It’s the expected move in this dance. She easily relents and we end up with four mangos for 7,000 Leones, as she “threw in” an extra mango for free.

I looked at Micah – we were totally lost in the confusion of the moment. Everything was happening so fast. I brought my hands together in a “T” and called a time out, a concept that apparently doesn’t translate across cultures well. We tried to huddle and get control of the situation in vain. In short order we had two pineapples in our bag for 8,000 Leones, seemingly a good deal. Next we purchased the watermelon outright, the seller demanding payment on delivery. Apparently, she was not part of the same fruit cooperative as the other ladies that were allowing us to fill our bag before we paid.

The ladies fulfilled our request for papaya, again “throwing in” a charity fruit. Our bag was full and near ripping. The chief of the fruit co-op gave us the total, which we corrected after adding up the subtotals. Micah handed over 25,000 Leones to a visually ecstatic woman who hugged me. A hug. Something was up. We instantly knew that we had paid way too much. We walked away, thankful that the circus was over and we had fruit. It was fun to experience and was worth the extra couple bucks for the story. We were not too upset that we paid a couple extra bucks. Though we had been taken advantage of, we were able to bless the women. They still smile and wave enthusiastically as we walk past days after the experience. They have fond memories of us.

Bono, Not Sonny

Bono, an Irish musician, addressed several heads of state, including Bushy, on February 2 at the National Prayer Breakfast. If you think it's strange for a musician to address people at an event with the "Prayer" in the title, so did Bono. The speech is quite interesting, challenging, and worth the read.

LINK TO SPEECH

Note: I'm really late on the band wagon here. Everyone and his brother posted a link to this speech over a month ago. I even watched the video before I came to Sierra Leone. But hey, better late than never.

A Still and a Talkie

There is a new picture and movie in the photo gallery.

Kids at Kroo Bay